2016ss Fashion Doctrine That You Must Know

不可不知的時尚主義 Fashion Trend That You Must Know

時尚圈是一個充滿著離別與聚合的圈子,時尚圈的來與去,說不上是好是壞,但總歸會給時尚圈留下更多不同主義的創新。 The fashion world is destined to represent times for separation and aggregation, even though people come and go in the fashion world, we can’t really say it is either good or bad. However, they leave different ideas for different creations in fashion.

解構主義

Deconstruction

1. John Galliano 提起解構主義,不得不提起“海盜爺” John Galliano。2016春夏發佈會,看著高聳髮髻搭配著大片銀色眼影出現的模特,就知道在圈內這種神奇詭異的風格是來自John Glliano的。看著他傳奇地把東瀛風韻的和服解構成長裙套裝,把仙鶴、巨浪、錦鯉繡在束腰的長裙上,直接把觀眾帶到了解構的仙境世界。網格絲襪搭配雌雄同體的外套下,給人鋒芒畢露且性感難捨的氣息,滲透著他對兩性平等的尊重。

When talking about deconstruction, we have to mention "pirates" by John Galliano. In 2016 spring summer fashion show, models with a high bun and large silver eye shadow appeared on the runway. This kind of peculiar style comes from John Glliano. He deconstructed a Japanese kimono into a long dress suit, with red-crowned crane, surge, Koi embroidery in the dress that dies on waist, taking the audience into a fairyland of deconstruction. Mesh stockings with a unisex coat that leaves people sharp and sexy, showing his respect for gender equality.

2. Simon Porte Jacquemus

法國90後設計師Simon Porte Jacquemus 在25歲時拿到了LVMH 十二新秀之一,他用解構主義跨越現實風格獲得了在時尚界的地位。在Jacquemus的時裝秀中可以看到他對自然解放的執著,裸腳行走的模特,不拘小節,隨性的成衣版型,成功地營造了解構主義低調的超現實藝術氣息。放浪不羈地把袖子製成上衣,把襯衫變成半條褲子,這些看似不上心的成品,解構精神的吶喊形式,叛逆的主張,成為了Jacquemus最明顯的個人風格。

At the age of 25, Simon Porte Jacquemus was one of the 12 LVMH up-and-coming youngsters. His deconstruction surrealistic style won a position in the fashion world. In Jacquemus’s fashion show, you can see his obsession on liberation and nature. Barefoot walking models who dress in relaxing and casual clothes successfully show the artistic atmosphere of low profiled deconstruction surrealistic style. Unrestrained, he uses sleeves to make coats and turns shirts into trousers. These detached works are a form of deconstruction spirit. Rebellion becomes Jacquemus’s most remarkable personal style.

未來主義

Futurism

1. Nicolas Ghesquière - Futuristic

在Louis Vuitton 2016年春夏加州發佈會上,LV首席創意總監Nicolas Ghesquière安置了一艘來自外太空的飛船的場地給賓客看時裝秀,映照了他最新一季的未來主義時裝。在Nicolas的未來世界的體現中,把模特的妝容打扮成動漫裡的造型,穿著立體剪裁的泡泡裙,或是亮色的皮質裙子,在沒有反光面料的情況下,營造了未來的氣氛。Nicolas作品的細節中添加了很多女性主義的色彩,象徵著權力的皮繩纏繞模特的手,外套也使用了硬朗的皮革。密密麻麻LV圖騰結合極簡拼色條紋的設計,讓LV成功地擺脫了因滿滿Logo帶來的俗氣。

In 2016 Louis Vuitton Spring and Summer California fashion show, the chief creative director Nicolas Ghesquiere placed an outer spaceship in the show for guests to reflect his latest futuristic fashion. In Nicolas’s future world, models are made up and dressed into cartoon characters, wearing stereo bubble or bright leather skirts. Without reflective fabric, it created a future atmosphere. Nicolas added many feminine elements into the details, like leather rope that represents power twining models hands and hale-leathered coats. Thickly dotted LV totems combing with brief striped design to successfully gets rid of full Logo tacky taste.

2. Raf Simons –Futuristic Holiday

提出未來主義理論的哲學家F.T.Marinetti 說過未來主義的定義在於速度與運動。雖說Raf Simons在業內並沒有什麼驚人的創新作為,但這一季對未來主義的表達,用不同的線條和漸變色彩玩弄出動態,甚至把透視裝和網紋裝都演繹出了時空的概念。節日系列的創作,Raf說著重在於傳達自由、玩味以及個人主義色彩(Freedom, playfulness and individual)。為了讓整場秀的假日氣息更濃厚,時尚界未來主義的鼻祖Pierre Cardin將自己在南法的私人別墅“泡泡屋”借給Raf Simons,作為Dior 2016度假系列的秀場。

Philosophers F.T.Marinetti, who came up with the futurism theory, said that the definition of futurism lies in speed and sport. Even though Raf Simons doesn’t have an amazing creation in the fashion world, he plays with different lines and gradient colors to express the idea of futurism in this season. Even see-through dresses and netlike dress show the concept of space. For creation of holiday series, Raf said it focus on the convey of freedom, playfulness and individual. In order to strengthen a holiday atmosphere, originator of fashion futurism Pierre Cardin let Raf Simons use his private villa in the south of France to be the show field of Dior 2016 holiday series.

後現代主義

Postmodernism

1. Vivienne Westwood

西太后最近兩季的發佈都專注在關注氣候的變化上,費盡她的精氣去大肆宣揚“地球可持續發展”的拯救活動。無論是2015秋冬或是2016春夏,都能看到西太后在環保主題上表達對現態環境的不滿。2016春夏場靈感來自日漸被淹沒的“威尼斯”,衣遮半體的模特,畫著復古抽象派的oversize套裝,領子高過模特頭部的外套,怪誕凌亂的衣著搭配。這些都表達了西太后不滿現狀,想打破現實世界的那些和諧、平衡的假象。

Vivienne Westwood focuses on the climate change in last two season’s release. She makes a lot of effort to propagate “sustainable development of the earth”. In 2015 autumn and winter fashion show and 2016 spring and summer fashion show, we can see Vivienne Westwood’ s dissatisfaction with the current environment protection situation. Venice will inspire 2016 spring and summer shows. Models will wear half-covered clothes. Oversize suits are painted with vintage abstractionism and the coat’s collar is higher than model’s head. Bizarre and messy clothes collocation express Vivienne Westwood’s dissatisfaction with the current situation. She aims to break the harmonious and balanced illusion.

2. Sarah Burton --鬼斧的延續

The continuation of Genius

在後現代主義的領域裡,Alexander McQueen 在這個圈子裡是鬼才,是流氓,是時尚界的“可怕頑童”(enfant terrible),他個人的“耍賴皮”個性滲透了整個品牌的個性。在Alexander離世之後,儘管品牌仍然火紅不息,但新的創意總監Sarah Burton一直變現平平。直到2016春夏,Sarah總算是找到了鬼才後現代的節奏了。新一季的作品中,Sarah 作出了對宗教束縛的反抗和擺脫。她把17世紀的復古元素加入到設計當中,並打破了那個時代俱有的禁錮元素。那些纏繞在模特腰間的線條蕾絲、輕紗、晶片宣泄了她對精神壓制的不滿,像是有一顆思潮復興的種子在作品內,等待著爆發的機遇。

Alexander McQueen is a genius and a rogue in the field of post modernism. He is the “enfant terrible” in the fashion world. His “act in a slick way” personality influences the brand’s overall character. After Alexander’s death, the brand is still hot and popular. However, its new creative director Sarah Burton is a bit plain in her performance. Until 2016 spring and summer show, Sarah finally follows up with speed of post modernism genius. In the new season, Sarah is a bit reluctant to get rid of religious restrictions. She adds in 17th century vintage elements into the design and makes a breakthrough imprisoned elements of that age. Line laces, fine gauzes, crystal plates that winds around the model’s waist unleash her dissatisfaction with mental suppression. It’s like a renaissance seed that is waiting for an opportunity.


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