The Legendary Shangri-La

闖進傳說中的「香格里拉」

The Legendary Shangri-La

全球各國各族的人間仙境傳說很多,神州大地美絕全球,流傳有「桃花源」與「香格里拉」兩大傳說,前者多為虛構、後者卻有根有據。「香格里拉」可以劃分為「香格里拉縣城」與「大香格里拉區」。整個「大香格里拉區」橫跨西藏、四川與雲南的三省交界,不少人到過香格里拉縣城,但這不過是通往聖域的大門口,跨過後才能體會這個神話傳說的真諦。公認香格里拉的靈魂之地有兩處,分別是四川的亞丁與雲南的雨崩,稱之天堂亦不為過,不過亞丁海拔極高、雨崩體力極耗,天堂,從來也不是輕易能夠闖進。

雪山、冰湖、彩林、藏村,金草、溪流、毛牛、飄雪、經幡、再加上與世隔絕令旅客人煙稀少,這是亞丁給人的震撼印象。亞丁區內只有少量的藏鄉村寨,不過村寨的建築和寺廟別具一格,風貌很獨特。亞丁村向前走的沖古寺是真正景區的起點,寺的四周森林在秋季,沒有一棵樹有著相同顏色,從沖古寺可以選擇到珍珠海觀看仙乃日雪山的倒影,或是坐電瓶車到洛絨牛場。

There are many fairy tales around the world. Two legends, the Peach Garden and Legendary Shangri-La, are popular among the wonderful land of China. The former one is likely to be fictional, but the latter one is well founded. Shangri-La can be divided into Shangri-La County and Great Shangri-La Area. The whole Great Shangri-La Area is across Tibet, Sichuan and Yunnan Provinces. Many people have been to Shangri-La County, but this is just a gate to the holy place. Go through it and you can experience the true meaning of legend. There are two places that are universally acknowledged as the soul of Shangri-La. They are Sichuan’s Yading and Yunnan’s Yubeng, which deserve to be called heaven. Yading has extremely high altitude, while Yubeng needs strong physical strength. It’s never easy to break into heaven.

There are snow mountains, ice lake, forest, Tibetan village, golden grass, river, yaks, falling snow and prayer flags. Isolated from the outside world, it attracts few visitors. This is the shocking impression Yading leaves oo people. There are only few Tibetan villages in Yading. Village’s buildings and temples have a style of their own, which is very unique. Go ahead of Yading. There is Chonggu Temple, which is the real start of scenic region. In August, trees around the temple have different colors. None of these colors are the same. From the temple, you can choose to go to the Pearl Sea to watch the reflection of Xiannairi Mountain in the water. Or go by accumulator car to Luorong yak farm.

洛絨牛場被仙乃日雪山、央邁勇雪山、夏諾多吉雪山三座聖潔美麗的雪峰以品字型的擁抱在中央,成群的毛牛與馬在金色草地和溪流放牧,天空飄著陣陣降雪,塞風拍打彩繪經幡,冰湖反映雪山倒影,每一步也是如此令人驚歎、每走一步也是天堂的遊記。

如果亞了是觀賞性的仙境,雨崩卻是一次闖進奇幻大自然的心靈接觸。雨崩村是位於梅里雪山下的一條隱世小村。梅里雪山作為藏地八大神山之首,在藏民心中地位超然,壯觀的日照金山奇觀和濃厚的宗教氣息為雨崩吸引眾多徒步愛好者與朝聖的喇嘛,千辛萬苦也要一睹神山真面目。

Luorong yak farm is surrounded by holy and beautiful Xiannairi Mountain, YangMaiyong Mountain and XianuoDuoji Mountain by triangle. Herds of yaks and horse gaze on golden grass and rivers. Snow is falling from the sky, while prayer flags are flapping in the wind. Ice Lake shows the reflection of the snow mountain in the water. Every step walks into an amazing world. Every step is like walking in heaven.

在梅里神山之旁、在彩色經幡的包圍下,一步一氣喘、每一步也是在考驗到訪者的意志。相比海拔極高但乘車可到的亞丁仙境,必須依靠腳步與意志力的雨崩,讓人更能感受到在這個雪山深谷之中與大自然融為一體,這是朝聖者與徒步愛好者所追求的境界與修練。

Surrounded by the Meilixue Mountain and colorful prayer flags, each breath and step of visitors will be tested. Compare with Yading, which is high altitude but can go by riding, Yubeng needs determined steps and willpower. In this deep valley, people feel that they integrate with nature into one. Pilgrims and hikers take a long effort to achieve such a realm.

Yubeng has three scenic spots: holy lake, ice lake and the holy waterfall. We chose the shortest route and the most possible goal to achieve: holy waterfall. We went from one side of Yubeng to the other side of Yubeng, and then we arrived at holy waterfall. It was rainy most of the time. We spent eight hours staring from 3000 meters altitude to 3900 meters altitude and back. We walked around the holy waterfall three times with holy snow water from the Holy Mountain to clean all impurities from the body and the heart.

雨崩杯內有三處景點:神湖、冰湖與神瀑,我們選擇了最短最有可能性的神瀑。從上雨崩村出發經下雨崩村再到神瀑,在大部分時間下雨的情況下,由海拔3000米上波到3900米再返回,歴時了整整8個小時。在神瀑時繞神瀑三圈,以神山雪水洗凈凡世塵埃。

If Yading is an ornamental wonderland, then Yubeng is a fantastic break-in to the heart of nature. Yubeng village is hidden under the Meilixue Mountain. Meilixue Mountain is the head of the eight holy mountains in Tibet, which ranks high-status in Tibetan people’s hearts. Spectacular view of golden sunshine on top of the mountain and strong religious atmosphere attract a lot of hikers and lamas who are on the pilgrimage. Despite all the difficulties and hardships, they want to take a look at the holy mountain.

INFO

Altitude Stress

高原反應

When human beings go to plateau at more than 3000m altitude they will have different degrees of altitude stress. Yubeng altitude is between 3000-4100 meters, while Yading is 4000-4900m. Tourists need to take preventive medicine, for example, Rhodiola rosea and Gaoyuanan, a week before they take off. Among them, Yading has the highest altitude and it’s isolated from the outside. In case of any accident, tourists should carry acute altitude stress medicine and portable oxygen bottles.

人體初到3000以上海拔的高原,會有不同程度的高山反應,雨崩高度由3000至4100之間,亞丁在4000至4900之間,旅客皆需在出發事一星期進食預防性藥物,例如:紅景天與高原安。其中,亞丁海拔極高而且與世隔絕,旅客應攜帶救急性的高山反應藥與便攜式氧氣樽入內,以防萬一。

Traffic

交通

There are many ways to go to these two places. They all have different degrees of danger. The safest way is a 14-hour drive from Shangri-la County to Daocheng. The next day it takes five hours to go Yading. From Yubeng, it takes eight hours to arrive at the gate of the village. Then you can choose to walk or ride a horse to go into the village, which takes around six hours.

進入兩地的方法很多,各有不同程度的危險性,最安全的方法皆在香格里拉縣城作起點,14個小時的車程能到稻城,第二天再坐5小時便能到達亞丁;雨崩方面8小時車程可到入村口,然後選擇徒步或騎馬入村,歷時6小時。

Food

美食

Yading and Yubeng belong to the Tibetan area. Tibet has three traditional foods: yak meat, buttered tea and Highland barley bread. They can be found everywhere and available and in every restaurant.

亞丁與雨崩皆為藏區,藏民三大傳統美食:毛牛肉、酥油茶與青粿餅隨處可見、每一間餐廳都有。

Culture

文化

When people pass the Tibetan Buddhist pagoda, they need to walk clockwise by the left. Otherwise, it will be considered as unlucky and disrespectful to the local religion. Tibetans likes to use “tashi delek” (meaning felicity and luck) to greet each other. It’s commonly used like ‘hello’. If you don’t reply the greeting, it is considered impolite.

人們經過藏傳佛教佛塔時,必須由左方順時針而行,否則會視作不吉利與不尊重宗教;藏民喜歡用「扎西得勒」(意為如意吉祥)互相祝福打招呼,普遍程度跟「你好」差不多,不回一句,很沒有禮貌。

Taboo

大忌​

First, altitude stress refers to different degrees of discomfort. After a day or two, the body will automatically get used to the environment and symptoms will disappear. However, if a person has altitude stress with a cold, he or she may possibly have a serious complication called pleural effusion. Second, it’s hard to survive in Yubeng if you don’t have an alpenstock, unless you have another pair of legs. Third, Meilixue Mountain forbids climbing. No one has been to the top of the mountain. Besides terms from law and religion, its history also tells people to give up this idea.

一、高山反應是身體出現不同程度的不適,一兩天後身體會自動適應、症狀也會消失,但假如高反遇上感冒,便有機會出現嚴重的併發症「肺積水」,病人有可能因而死亡,必須立即求醫;二、如果不帶「行山仗」是很難在雨崩生存,除非閣下帶多了一雙「後備腿」;三、梅里雪山是嚴禁攀登、也從沒有人類登過頂峰,除了法律與宗教的明文規定外,它過去的歷史故事也在告訴大家,絕了這條心。

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